![]() Required: 002, , MDS Damper To Frame,, Pipe to Converter,, ,, Pipe to Converter,, DPF to SCR, Pipe to Converter, Pipe to DOC, OR, ,, , Fuel Tank Strap to Frame, Mid Fuel Tank Strap to Frame, OR, Or Mid Fuel Tank Strap to Frame, Or Mid Fuel Tank Strap to Frame,, OR, ,, ,, DPF to Pipe, Pipe to SCR,, OR, ,, , A, B & B 1/2 Pillar, Air Cleaner Bracket, Alternator To Engine Mount, ALTERNATOR TO RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT, Body Cushion To Frame, Body Isolator To Body, Body Isolator to Frame, Bracket Attaching to Isolator, Bracket Mounting, Bracket to C-Pillar Mount, Bracket to Engine, Bracket to Front Engine Cover, BRKT TO ENGINE, C Pillar, C-Pillar, C-Pillar Cushion To Frame, CATALYTIC CONVERTER TO TURBO ELBOW, Center Bearing Attaching To Fuel Tank Crossmember, Converter to Converter, Converter to Pipe and Pipe to Y-Pipe Resonator, Damper To Frame, DPF to SCR, Elbow Bracket To Cylinder Block, Engine Mount Bracket To Stud On Cylinder Block, Engine Mount To Cylinder Block. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below and I will do my best to answer them.Complete Chassis Parts Module. ![]() As shown below, the solid aluminum bars look great.Īfter the install the steering is tight and solid, feels like a new Jeep again! I will be updating the blog with news as I use this upgrade. Installation was very simple as all it took as tightening the castle nut to the correct torque and then inserting the cotter pin to keep the nut from backing out. I did not get a picture of the drag link removal but it was similar to the tie rod. Using a tie rod separator, I was able to separate both the left and right sides (next two pictures). I measured the ones that I took out and set the replacements to the same size. Using a bit of anti-seize, the joints went in with ease. The ends were clearly marked as to where each went. It was easy to unwrap and confirm that the drag link (top) and the tie rod (middle) were in fantastic shape. The parts were very securely wrapped in a plastic wrap that held everything together. Even the ends are rebuildable.Īs shown below, the package was shipped via UPS and arrived with no visible damage on the outside. ![]() This upgrade means that I won’t have to replace it again unless there is a severe catastrophic event. I have replaced 1 drag link and 3 tie rods on my rig over 12 years and 200,000 miles. I decided to upgrade to a solid aluminum rod as it takes a beating and will return straight where others could bend and retain the bent shape. These two indicators told me that it was time to replace the parts before they lead to something called “Death Wobble”. I could feel a slight “click” when the wheel changed directions. I also had my wife turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn back and forth while I put my had on the tie rod. I grabbed the tie rod and was able to move it fairly easy by hand (it should be stiff). How did I know that? Well there were two easy ways to check. So I did a quick check of my drag link and tie rod and found that they were starting to go bad.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |